Hiking in the Smokies: Alum Cave to Mt. LeConte

 

We finished our trip to the Smokies with our longest-ever hike. Nearly 11 miles to one of the tallestmountains in the Eastern United States. For this hike, we set an alarm to ensure an early departure. I was concerned about parking for this popular hike, as well as weather and avoiding the crowds. We arrived to the trailhead just after 7:15am and started our hike around 7:30am. The first mile of the hike was pretty mellow. It felt like we were in a rain forest. I dressed in a tank top and shorts and felt a little cool to start but warmed up quickly. I brought a sweater for the summit. The first part of this hike was to Alum Cave (around 2.3 miles into the hike). The pictures online were impressive but seeing it in person was jaw-dropping. 

I liked the first part of this hike (to Alum Cave) because it was broken into a few different segments. It took us 56 minutes to get to the Alum Cave and the time went by really quickly. The first segment was Arch Rock (around 1.3 miles into the hike). We crossed over a foot bridge and up the stairs and through the Rock. As we began to make our way up the mountain, the terrain wasn't too technical. At ~2 miles, we reached Inspiration Point - a beautiful view point. It was cloudy to start but thankfully most of the clouds moved away when we reached this point. Some people were taking pictures and others were resting on the rocks. Not too far beyond the inspiration point, we walked up several sets of stairs and around the corner, we were greeted by the Alum Cave (not really a cave - it looks more like a cliff). It wasn't too crowded and those who were there were spread out over the sand. It was a sight to see. This part of the trail was more family-friendly than to LeConte (although we did see a few kids hiking with their parents all the way to the top). Sadly, we didn't see the llamas that carry supplies to the lodge. 

We made our way up the sand and back on to the trail to Mt. LeConte. The trail became more technical and rocky and we kept climbing and climbing. For the next 3.12 miles (80 minutes), the views became more impressive and the terrain became more technical. There were cables fixed into the rocks to help with navigating through some of the rocky sections. The overall atmosphere throughout the hike was extremely friendly and it felt like life was "normal" as we were hiking. No distractions, negative energy or worries. There were times when it felt like we would never reach the top but eventually, we approached the flat section near the top, letting us know that we were almost at the lodge. We had made our way almost to the lodge when Karel spotted a Momma deer and not too long later, her baby came too her to nurse. Oh what a sight (you can see it on the video below the pics). When we arrived to the Lodge, we used the restroom and checked out the area (on the left of the trail). You can actually stay in the lodge (although reservations are booked far in advance). The cafe/dining area doesn't open until noon (I think).

It took us ~2 hours and 15 minutes to hike to the lodge (~5.4 miles). We then made our way another 2.6 miles up the mountain to the actual senic spot - Clif Top. This section was extremely technical as you are hiking over all shapes and sizes of rocks. It was even more technical going down from the Clif. But when we arrived to the top, it was all worth it. In total it took us 2 hours and 22 minutes to hike to Clif Top (5.66 miles - starting from our parked car on the street). We had a good size snack at the top and then made our way back down the mountain. We spent around 15 minutes at the top (it started to get cooler and cloudy - thankful I brought a sweater). The clouds do pass by often so if you arrive and it's cloudy (or "smoky", just wait 10-20 minutes for the clouds to (hopefully) pass. It wasn't too busy at the top - probably around 8-10 people at the Clif top when we were there around 10am. It took us 1 hours and 58 minutes to make our way down the mountain - with the last 1/2 mile or so in the pouring rain.
In total the hike was 4 hours and 25 minutes with around 30 minutes at the scenic points (in total we spent a little less than 5 hours on the trail). This hike was well worth it and we finished our trip mentally rejuvinated and exhausted. 

Quick Stats:
Name of trail: Alum Cave Trailhead
Waterfall: No
Scenic overlook: Yes
Distance: 11 miles round trip (2.2 miles to Alum Cave, 5.5 miles to the summit of Mount LeConte - also known as Clif Top). 
Parking: Two paved parking lots as well as street parking (suggest to arrive early)
Elevation gain: ~3000 feet (start at ~3550 and finish at ~6550). According to the Hiking in the Smokies Website, "At 6593 feet, Mount LeConte is the third highest peak in the Smokies. However, measured from its immediate base to its highest point, Mt. LeConte can be considered the tallest mountain in the Eastern United States, rising 5301 feet from its base near Gatlinburg.
Difficulty: Alum Cave Trail is moderate. The LeConte trail is difficult.  

Here are some pictures of our 11-mile hike. To learn more about the Alum Cave Trail to Mt. LeConte, check out this link. To learn more about the Leconte lodge, click here. 

Hiking in the Smokies: Tuckaleechee Caverns

 

Technically, this was not a hike. But we did cover 1.25 miles during the 75-minute tour. 

Karel really wanted to visit a "cave" while we were in the Smoky Mountains and I came across the Tuckaleechee Caverns during an internet search. We were really impressed with all of the large mineral deposits (like the stalactites, stalagmites, soda straws and columns). Our tour guide provided us with a lot of really cool facts and information about this cavern and the history/story behind it. 

Here's some information about the Tuckaleechee cavern from the website: 
Tuckaleechee Caverns of Townsend, TN. Known as the “Greatest Site Under the Smokies” are the highest rating Cave or Cavern of the Eastern United States. Carved inside the earth’s oldest mountain chain and estimated to be between twenty to thirty million years old, the Caverns are rich in history and lore in recent years as well. You will find the “BigRoom” on one end of the tour that could almost fit a football stadium inside it. On the other half of the tour you get to view “SilverFalls”. It falls 210 feet from top to bottom and the tallest subterranean waterfall in the Eastern US . Millions of formations are viewed along the 1.25 mile round trip adventure.

Quick Facts
Location: Townsend, TN (~50 minutes or 23 miles to/from Gatlinburg)
Cost: $18-adults, $8-Child (5-11), Free-Child (4 and under)
Tour length: 75 minutes, 1.25 miles
Tour difficulty: There are a lot of steps (over 400) and tight spaces (low ceilings) but otherwise, not a difficult hike. 
Best time for the tour: We were told the least popular time (smallest crowd) is in the afternoon. Also, if you tour after a rainstorm, you will see more waterfalls within the cavern. There are several tour guides. A tour starts every 15-20 minutes (we only had to wait aout 10 minutes).
Waterfall? YES! 
Gift shop: Yes
Bathrooms: Yes 
Drinks allowed? Yes. I suggest to bring an empty water bottle as there is a stop in the tour where you can fill up your bottle with fresh/clean water from inside the cavern. 
Extra: Bring some spare change to toss in the wishing well. All the money collected each year is donated to a local elementary school. 

Here are some pics from our tour: 

Check out this shadow!! (A bear!)

Hiking in the Smokies: Spruce Flats Falls

 

After our strenous 8-mile hike on Tuesday, we opted for a low key hike on Wednesday. However, this hike was far from low key as it was absolutely stunning when we arived to the waterfall. We arrived to the parking lot around 10am (after getting a little lost - we drove right by the parking lot and didn't realize it until a few miles later on a packed gravel road). The hike to the falls took us 37 minutes. We took our time to enjoy the views. It took us 28 minutes to return to the parking lot. The trail was very quiet (not overcrowded with people) and not too technical. The last 0.3 miles were actually downhill (and a little rugged with rocks) as we approached the falls. This was the only technical area. When we arrived to the waterfall, there were only 2 other people there so it was practically our own little oasis. We spent 30 minutes at the falls - taking pictures, eating a snack and Karel took a dip in the lagoon. I loved this waterfall as the sun was peaking through the trees and casted a beautiful glow on the pool of water under the falls. The water was not as cold as it was at Ramsey Cascades waterfall - Karel said the water was refreshing. There were several places to sit and enjoy the falls. By the time we left the falls, it was getting rather busy with families, so we timed it right. I really enjoyed all of the trees with exposed roots and the scenic view that surprised us around midway. It took us 65 minutes to hike the 1.4 miles and with a 30 minute stop to enjoy the falls, we spent around 1 hour and 35 minutes on this trail. This is a popular area for tubbing so if you enjoy that type of activity (or have kids) be sure to look into tubing in the Townsend area. There are also a lot of quaint shops around the Townsend area and it's much less touristy compared to Pigeon Forge/Gatlinburg. We really enjoyed the drive to Townsend/Tremont from our cabin in Sevierville. Quick Stats:
Name of trail: Spruce Flats Falls (located in Tremont)
Waterfall: Yes (along with a pool-like lagoon on the bottom)
Distance: 1.4 miles round trip
Parking: Paved parking lot at the Great Smoky Mountain Institute (the parking lot was closed due to COVID but there was another paved parking lot across the street). 
Elevation gain: ~800 feet 
Difficulty: Moderate, not too technical 

Here are some pictures of our 1.4-mile hike. To learn more about the Spruce Flats Falls, check out this link.

Smoky Mountain vacation - recap

This was the week when we were planning to board a plane to kick off our 5-week trip to Europe. One week of participating in the Haute Route Alps (7-day cycling tour), followed by one week of sightseeing off the beaten path and finishing our trip with a few weeks in and around Karel's hometown of Znojmo, Czech Republic to celebrate his dad's 80th birthday. This trip was over a year in the planning and we were really looking forward to our time in Europe. Although our trip was cancelled, we still felt like a vacation was in order. This vacation served a few different purposes but most of all, it was an opportunity to check out of our normal routine of swimbikerun and enjoy different sights and a lot of nature. We choose the Smoky Mountains because it was logistically close for driving but far enough away to feel like we were taking a "trip." It was also a location that neither of us have been to together (funny enough - Karel and I both discovered that we were both in Gatlinburg in the winter of 2003 and we didn't even know each other then!)

Karel and I  rarely take vacations that don't involve swimming, biking and running. Our last vacation (that didn't involve a race) was five years ago. We tried our best to embrace this change in our normal routine and slow down a bit. 

Removing our daily lifestyle of swimming, biking and running meant an opportunity to do a different activity that we both enjoy - hiking! For Karel, hiking is not a slow and leisure activity. He stops to enjoy the views but he hikes on a mission - much like how he runs ;) I am usually following behind as I can never keep up with his pace. But we both enjoy stopping at the sights that we see along the way. 

If you are considering a trip to the Smoky Mountains, here are some tips from our recent trip:

Where to stay

I was not familiar with the area so I booked a place on Airbnb in Seviervielle, TN (blue circle). Prior to booking, I chose this place because it was pet friendly (for Campy), had a beautiful view, was reasonably priced for peak season and was located between Townsend and the Smoky Mountain National park - which were two areas that we wanted to visit. However, if I had to book again, I would have booked a place in Gatlinburg (red circle) closer to US-441 S. We had a ~50-75 min drive to most of our hikes so staying a little closer would have knocked off some driving time. 

Cost
Aside from lodging, groceries and gas (~2.5 hour drive), this was a fairly inexpensive trip for us. We spent around $50 during our week stay. This included a tour to the Tuckaleechee Caverns in Townsend and an overly priced parking spot in downtown Gatlinburg. We brought a cooler of groceries with us (and a few prepared meals) and made two small shops at Kroger during our vacation. We didn't eat out but did purchase a few small grocery items at a local mass general store. 

Hiking
There are so many hikes in and around the Gatlinburg area. It was difficult to decide which ones to select during our short Sun-Sun, 7-day stay (well - more like 6 days as we came home a day early as it poured all day on Saturday). I used Alltrails.com, Hiking in the Smokys website and the National Park Service website (along with a few recommendations from friends) to plan our hikes. Here are the hikes that we went on:
Monday: Gatlinburg trail at the Sugarland Vistor Center (the only dog friendly trail in the area)
Tuesday: Ramsey Cascades Trail 
Wednesday: Spruce Flats Falls
Thursday: Tuckaleechee Caverns (not a true hike)
Friday: Alum Cave trail to Mt Leconte

The Gatlinburg trail was a nice hike with Campy. It had beautiful views of the Little Pigeon river. We arrived late morning and the parking lot was busy. However, the trail itself was very quiet as most of the tourists were on the hiking trails (which were not pet friendly) to the waterfalls. We made it about 1/2 mile before the sky opened up and it poured on us. Being the amateur hiker that I am, I didn't even think about bringing rain jackets for us (travel fail!). Karel ran back to the car to get an umbrella and we ventured on another 1/2 mile until we decided to turn around. Campy was not impressed with his only hike and the first day of our vacation was a wet one. 

I'll recap the other hikes in future blogs - stay tuned.

There were plenty more hiking trails for us to visit but we wanted to avoid large crowds and pace ourselves with the hiking terrain and distances. 

Lessons learned 

• We wanted to check out downtown Gatlinburg as we both visited the area (not together) in the past but had vague memories of the area. This was a bit of a letdown as it was very touristy and commercialized, a bit overwhelming. We wore our masks, checked out a few stores (which were more or less all the same) and walked up and down the street. It was a very hot day and we probably could have done without this adventure to downtown. 
• As I mentioned above, I should have booked a place closer to the hiking trails. 
• Bring a rain jacket! 
• I made the mistake of assuming that the trails were pet friendly. This is why we brought Campy (so he could enjoy the vacation with us). Although he had no trouble sleeping throughout the morning while we were out and about, it would have been fun to make more memories with Campy. 
• I am glad we didn't bring our bikes as I would have been a bit stressed trying to find safe and quiet biking routes. I found one pool but didn't want to mess with the hassle of reserving a lane while on vacation. Running the trails would have been a lot of fun but we wanted to give our bodies a break from the pounding. 

Final thoughts
We finished the vacation rejuvinated and exhausted. Our work never takes a vacation so we dedicated the morning hours to hiking and then worked throughout the afternoon. We only set an alarm on Friday (to get to the trailhead before it got busy) so it was nice to reset the body without an alarm clock (or a hungry kitten and senior cat demanding breakfast at 5:46am every morning). I'm sure this place is stunning in the fall with all the colors of the leaves on the trees. It was rather hot and humid at times but we also had a few rain showers which cooled things off. 

Here are some pictures from the start of our trip: